The Path to Annapurna

“Powerful and majestic, the mountains peak down at us from above the clouds as the minutes pass, and everyone is in awe of the nature that surrounds us.”

We followed the trail to reach the foot of the mountain. From the base camp of Annapurna I, we gaze up at it’s sheer south face, the jewel of the Annapurna Sanctuary. A mountain revered, home to the goddess of the same name, worshiped for bountifulness and sustenance by many who live in its vicinity. Annapurna’s north face is historic, it’s the route climbed by Maurice Herzog and his team to the summit, marking the first successful ascent of an eight thousander. It’s south face holds a more infamous reputation, scaled by only the virtuose of mountaineers, a massive vertical wall touching the heavens, with a memorial at its base for the many who are conquered by the power of the mountain.

ON THE TRAIL
Our group was chattering excitedly, we’d just received the results of our PCRs (safety first you guys) and we’re ready to hit the trail. You can feel the curiosity bubbling, our group still getting to know one another, and there is a sense of elation to be heading back outdoors after being home-bound due to covid.

After a day filled with stories and temples of Kathmandu, we hop on a short flight to Pokhara and a bus to our trail head in Nayapul, and everyone is geared up and ready for our hike through the Himalayas. Our trek takes us through thick forests, the forage would often part to reveal one of the larger peaks, teasing us about the giants we are about to meet. From Ghandruk to Chomrong, then Dovan, each village home for the night until we move again. The treeline thins out over the days as we ascend to higher terrain, giving way to an alpine landscape that’s a whole other mood. The colors move from lush greens to snowy peaks and granite ridges dotting the skyline.

Tea House Lovin’
A haze on the first days of the trail parted after some night-time rainfall, revealing the magic of the rocky towers that surrounded us.

“The hot springs in Jinhu are a unique highlight of this trail and a great way to end an adventure that really is for the mind, the body and the soul.”

We hardly heard the patter of the rain drops over the laughter in the common room of the tea houses. The charming lodges where we would lunch, dinner and rest warmly welcomed us after the long absence of trekkers the past months. We even had a special dance performance by the locals in Chomrong, a celebration of the first group of foreign trekkers on location since the beginning of the pandemic. The Nepalis of the mountains are happy to see business slowly trickle back to the villages, and we are happy to see it too.

WELCOMED TO THE SANCTUARY
On route to Annapurna Base Camp, our group bonds over many meals of Dal Bhat (the go to local dish) and a continuous supply of yummy ginger lemon tea. Nicknames are earned, inside jokes manifest, and a few anthems are belted out by the band section. Spirits are high as we hike through the sanctuary that holds a panorama of himalayan giants. We make a pitstop at Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC) before heading higher up to ABC, and you can feel the different energy of this high alpine environment. Powerful and majestic, the mountains peak down at us from above the clouds as the minutes pass, and everyone is in awe of the nature that surrounds us.

We call it a night at ABC and wake up with the sunrise to see its rays fall on Annapurna I, with an incredible clear sky, and a stunning view. We eat breakfast, pack our day packs, and begin our descent to lower warmer altitudes. Taking the trail down to the forests once more, and enjoying the hot springs in Jinhu before heading back to Kathmandu.

It’s no surprise that many who visit the Himalayas return to Nepal again and again, you can hike the trails for days on end and they will never seize to impress you with their majesty and beauty.