Distance: 2.2 KM | Ascent: 587 M | Descent: 1,953 M | Max Altitude: 6,119 M
If we followed Plan B and climbed directly from Lower Camp on the previous day, this day will be dedicated to descending from High Camp to Pheriche, and potentially lower depending on timing, weather, and how the team is feeling.
If we follow Plan A, we depart from High Camp just before daybreak for the Lobuche East summit attempt. The ascent from High Camp to the summit usually takes between 3 and 4 hours depending on pace, conditions, and traffic on the route. From camp, we head north beneath the summit toward the start of the first fixed rope.
The exit from High Camp is one of the most technically demanding sections of the climb because of the ice on the rocks. The good news is that we will have trained on this exact section the previous day. From there, we exit the rocky couloir onto a snow slab where clear steps are often dug into the snow and ice by previous climbers.
The fixed ropes are easy to follow and help guide our way, but it is important not to rely on them to pull yourself up. The aim is to use your feet, balance, and the techniques practised during training. This is more efficient, conserves energy, and is safer. The fixed ropes are there to assist. They are not there to climb for you.
The route continues across four consecutive fixed rope sections, each roughly 100 meters in length. At the top of the final rope in this series, we reach a plateau of snow and ice just a few meters below the summit. The narrow summit ridge and the slightly steeper section used to gain the ridge can create a bottleneck, especially in busier seasons. If needed, we may wait on the plateau until the summit ridge is clear and safe to access.
From the plateau, it takes less than 10 minutes to reach the summit. Once on the ridge, the Everest range opens up again in full force. From the summit of Lobuche East, it is possible to see the 8000 meter giants of Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. It is an incredible moment and one of the most powerful summit views in the Khumbu.
We will try to spend as much time as conditions allow on the summit, taking photos and appreciating the achievement. Weather, temperature, wind, timing, and other climbers may limit how long we can stay. Either way, we still have a significant descent ahead of us, so we begin moving down as soon as the climbing guides decide it is time.
The descent follows the fixed rope system back toward Higher Camp. We may need to abseil to access the plateau at the start of the descent, and extra care is needed on the final icy rock section before returning to camp. In some conditions, abseiling may also be the safest option there. Your climbing guides will remain close throughout the technical sections, advising on rope technique, movement, abseiling, spacing, and descent decisions so the team can move as safely and efficiently as conditions allow.
Once back at camp, we have a second breakfast, pack up our tents, and begin descending the rock slabs toward Lower Camp. The descent to Lower Camp is usually faster than the ascent because we are moving into lower altitude and higher oxygen levels. Depending on our arrival time, we may have a snack or lunch before continuing down toward Pheriche. Lunch is usually taken at the tea houses of Thukla.
After some rest, we continue along a descending trail that differs from the route we used on the way up. The descent drops altitude quickly before opening into an easier, flatter walk near the north faces of Cholatse and Taboche. Ama Dablam comes back into view ahead of us, while Lobuche East stands clearly behind us.
At the end of the valley is Pheriche, our home for the evening. Pheriche is a key hub for high altitude expeditions because of its clinic and helicopter access. It is also where the body begins to feel the relief of lower altitude again. There are a few coffee shops to visit, and life slowly starts to feel a little more comfortable as we return toward the lower Khumbu. Dinner will be at our tea house.
