Mont Blanc v Elbrus: The Post-Kilimanjaro Debate

“We’re telling it as it is, fluff-free and as we see it.”

So you’ve gotten your first taste of the high altitude environment and you’ve decided it is kind of like oysters: It may taste like a giant booger at first but you’ve now learned to appreciate giant boogers. But unlike the culinary “je ne sais quoi” that is acquiring a taste for the bottom feeders of the ocean, mountaineering has a 1,000 directions and possibilities for what comes next but only two that seems to be well advertised: Elbrus and it’s European rival the Mont Blanc. In light of all the fluff and none sense centered mostly around which one is actually the highest in Europe, both mountains have a lot to offer but couldn’t be more different in terms of experiences and trajectories. So we’ve broken down the debate to help you decide where to take your second step in mountaineering.

ELBRUS
Yes, it is the highest if you define Europe as the Eurasian continental plate. No one on Earth does that unless you’re also prepared to accept that Armenia, Azerbaijan, Uzbekistan and Iran are also part of Europe. No. They are not. Of course if you’d like to take the Ural Mountains as the natural land boarder then there is an argument to be made. Regardless, Elbrus does present a formidable challenge. It is indeed higher than the Mont Blanc with a summit of 5,642 meters. The trails that lead to the glacier are incredibly scenic and the mountain itself boasts a ski resort enabling those of us with a substandard climbing ethic to take a snowcat to within a very short distance of the summit itself. The classic route is not technical and some basic self arrest techniques are all you apparently need to know, at least according to the local guides, before making an attempt on this mountain. The summit success rate is between 80-90% but the mountain has been known to be very harsh when weather forms. Lack of preparation, particularly on weather related issues is the leading cause of fatality on the mountain.

“If it’s education you seek, the Mont Blanc itinerary or at the very least, Chamonix, is the place to start. If it’s peak bagging the 7 summits and hoping you never find yourself in a situation where you actually need to rely on your own skill and knowledge to pull yourself out of a bind, Elbrus is your route.”

MONT BLANC
The highest mountain in the European Alps and the European Union and pretty much what most people think of as Europe when the word Europe is spoken in daily discourse, the Mont Blanc is an imposing summit with 4,810 meters to its credit. Unlike Elbrus, the mountain is far easier to access for climbers although there is no snowcat willing to take you anywhere near it. The mountain is flanked by the ski resorts Chamonix and Courmayeur both sitting at the foot of the mountain on opposite ends. The Mont Blanc is a shorter expedition but far more technically demanding. First timers are expected to engage in days of training with the guide on the glacier and even climb a smaller summit in the area before attempting any of the routes. The typical Gouter Route requires advanced crampon skills and confidence in rope and ice axe techniques. This is primarily why a Mont Blanc itinerary focuses a lot more on educating new climbers as opposed to just pulling them up the mountain. Chamonix is also the birthplace of mountain sports and a vast array of possibilities become apparent to any new climber looking for direction beyond the trending 7 summits.

WHERE TO GO?
If it’s education you seek, the Mont Blanc itinerary or at the very least, Chamonix, is the place to start. If it’s peak bagging the 7 summits and hoping you never find yourself in a situation where you actually need to rely on your own skill and knowledge to pull yourself out of a bind, Elbrus is your route. This isn’t to say that you can’t gain a fantastic education in the Caucuses. You most definitely can. This article addresses the typical itinerary marketed to both would be Elbrus and Mont Blanc summiteers and given that our community ethic tends towards education and providing choices beyond the mainstream 7, we favor the latter.

Do you agree with our assessment? Let us know or if you’d like to contribute your own article to the debate we’d love to publish it. Just get in touch with us on [email protected].