BY Rami Rasamny | May 13 2024

Triumph and Resilience: Tony’s Ascent of Ama Dablam

Triumph and Resilience: Tony’s Ascent of Ama Dablam
Rami Rasamny

Rami Rasamny

When Tony joined Life Happens Outdoors for his first mountain trip to Kilimanjaro in January 2023, he never imagined he’d soon stand atop one of the most iconic peaks in the Himalayas. Over the course of the year, he scaled Chimborazo, Aconcagua, and Lobuche East, progressively building a pedigree of climbing that would lead to a significant milestone in April: reaching the summit of Ama Dablam. This climb was marked by both triumph and resilience.

The LHO vibe on full display at the top of an epic expedition!

Efficient and Adaptable: A Team-Driven Approach

LHO’s expedition was composed of a small but highly capable team, ensuring safety, efficiency, and adaptability amidst the unpredictable conditions of Ama Dablam. While 24 days were allocated for the climb, the team managed to complete it in 16 by choosing a unique acclimatisation strategy. Instead of directly heading to base camp and spending repetitive nights in expedition tents, the team climbed two nearby peaks: Nangkartshang at 5,073 meters and Chukung Ri at 5,546 meters. This strategic approach allowed them to spend more nights in comfortable tea houses within the villages along the trail, improving recovery between acclimatisation hikes.

On the summit of Chukung Ri beneath the south face of Lhotse with Makalu emerging on the horizon.

Navigating April’s Unique Challenges

In the April season, Ama Dablam is less crowded than in the fall, allowing the team to ascend smoothly without waits, particularly beneath the notorious Yellow Tower. This section can be hazardous when congested due to rockfall, but the team managed to navigate this challenging stretch with minimal delays.

Almost at the top of the yellow tower.

Trust and Passion: The LHO Difference

Tony felt the unwavering support of the LHO team throughout the expedition. He noted, “LHO doesn’t feel like an operator but rather like an old friend who is there with you looking out for your best interests.” He further emphasized, “LHO has passion. They want you to love what they love, and in this case, it was loving the Himalayas, mountaineering, and Ama Dablam.”

Tony, LHO guide Kebin Rai and LHO founder and Team Leader Rami Rasamny at Base Camp.

A Test of Resilience

Just beneath the summit, Tony encountered an unexpected challenge when he appeared to tear something in his knee. The situation necessitated a quick evacuation from Camp 3 by helicopter. Nuru Sherpa, the Sherpa guide with decades of experience on Ama Dablam and in the Everest region, descended with Tony while the team leader coordinated with the Kathmandu team via satellite phone. Arrangements were made swiftly so that by the time they reached Camp 3, the helicopter was already moments away from landing.

Descending to camp three after the knee injury and shortly before the helicopter arrived below at camp 3.

In Tony’s words, “These are the moments when you appreciate who you’re climbing with. When things go right you hardly notice. It’s in the difficult moments that you want a team there who is invested, professional, and ready to act quickly.”

Camp 1 on Ama Dablam.

Tony’s ascent of Ama Dablam, supported by LHO, embodies the spirit of perseverance and camaraderie. Despite unexpected challenges, the team rallied to demonstrate the resilience, adaptability, and trustworthiness that make mountain adventures truly unforgettable.

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