BY Rami Rasamny | September 23 2024
Nelly Attar Completes the Eiger via the Mittaligi Ridge with LHO
Renowned Lebanese mountaineer Nelly Attar, whose résumé includes the summits of Lhotse, Everest, and K2, recently completed the ascent of Switzerland’s iconic Eiger via the Mittaligi Ridge with Life Happens Outdoors (LHO). This was Nelly’s first climb with us, and despite snowy conditions, she successfully tackled the challenging route in impressive time, demonstrating her remarkable skills as well as the power of dedication and teamwork.
Why the Eiger is Significant
The Eiger stands at 3,967 meters (13,015 feet) and is one of the most famous mountains in the Bernese Alps. While the North Face is one of the most dangerous climbs in Europe, the Mittaligi Ridge offers a more scenic yet still technically demanding route to the summit comparable to the Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn.
The Mittaligi Ridge is a classic alpine route that combines rock scrambling, snow, and ice sections. Climbers must have experience in mixed terrain, as the narrow ridge demands precise movement and confidence on exposed sections. It provides stunning views of the valleys below, with the sheer North Face constantly in sight. The Mittaligi Ridge is a serious challenge, requiring technical skill, strong mountaineering experience, and the ability to handle rapidly changing weather conditions.
Nelly Attar’s Journey
Before tackling the Eiger, Nelly spent three days training with Francois-Xavier, one of LHO’s experienced guides. Their preparation included climbs on the Entreves and Piramide du Tacul, challenging routes that sharpened her technical skills and ensured she was ready for the rigors of the Mittaligi Ridge. Francois-Xavier has been guiding with LHO for 4 years and his guidance and expertise helped build the trust and teamwork that would be essential on the exposed sections of the Eiger.
Reflecting on her first climb with Life Happens Outdoors, Nelly shared, “Climbing the Eiger was always a dream of mine, but doing it with LHO added a whole new dimension to the experience. I had always known of LHO but our paths never really crossed until I finally decided to make this trip happen. Their professionalism and preparation allowed me to fully focus on the climb, and I felt incredibly supported throughout.”
The snowy conditions during Nelly’s ascent made the climb even more challenging, but her skills, combined with the expert guidance of Francois-Xavier, enabled her to navigate the ridge with speed and confidence. Her successful completion of the Mittaligi Ridge was a testament to her mountaineering experience and the strength of her collaboration with Life Happens Outdoors.
What It Takes to Climb the Eiger
Climbing the Eiger, especially via the Mittaligi Ridge, is not for beginners. It requires a strong foundation in alpine climbing, experience with exposed ridges, and the ability to move quickly and efficiently over mixed terrain. While it is more accessible than the North Face, the Mittaligi Ridge still demands excellent fitness, endurance, and technical skills in both rock and ice climbing.
For those looking to take on the Eiger in the future, it’s essential to follow a structured path to gain the necessary experience and confidence in high-altitude climbing. At Life Happens Outdoors, we offer courses tailored to different skill levels that will help you build the foundation needed for more challenging climbs.
For Novices: Mont Blanc Summit Course
If you’re new to alpine climbing or still building your basic skills, our Mont Blanc Summit Course is an ideal starting point. Mont Blanc offers a perfect introduction to high-altitude mountaineering, where you’ll learn key techniques like glacier travel, ice axe use, and how to navigate snow-covered ridges. Completing this course will provide the skills and confidence you need to progress to more advanced climbs.
For Those with Basic Alpine Experience: Matterhorn Course
For climbers who have some experience with easier alpine routes, our Matterhorn Course is the next step. The Matterhorn’s sharp ridges and exposed sections make it an excellent training ground for those looking to tackle more technical and demanding peaks. It’s a perfect stepping stone for climbers eyeing the Eiger or other challenging summits.
For Future Eiger Climbers: Higher Grade Alpine Experience
Before attempting the Eiger, we recommend gaining more experience on higher-grade alpine routes. The Mittaligi Ridge requires strong technical skills, confidence on exposed terrain, and the ability to handle the unpredictable conditions typical of the Alps. Building up to this level will allow you to approach the Eiger with the necessary competence and readiness.
Personalized Recommendations for Your Climbing Journey
At Life Happens Outdoors, we believe in supporting explorers and climbers at every stage of their journey. Whether you’re just starting out in the mountains or preparing for more advanced climbs, our team is here to help you chart your path. If you’re considering an ascent like the Eiger, reach out to us for personalized recommendations and guidance tailored to your current skill level and future climbing goals.
Nelly Attar’s successful climb of the Eiger with LHO is a perfect example of what can be achieved when preparation, teamwork, and passion come together in the mountains. We look forward to continuing to participate in enabling her journey and to be there for more climbers who seek to take on their own challenges and create lasting memories in the world’s most beautiful alpine landscapes.