BY Mosig Derakelian | November 22 2017
Annapurna, Annapurning, Annapurned!
“There was literally a sky full of stars.”
There is an Asian proverb that goes: “better to see something once than to hear about it a thousand times”. Every child has heard of the mystical Himalayas, those far off mountains separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetian Plateau. Little did I know back then that the day would one day come and I’ll actually see the incredible 8000 meter peaks with my own eyes.
Sometimes you just need a break in a beautiful place, alone, to figure everything out. That was what I was looking for when I, by chance, stumbled upon the LHO team who were prepping for the Annapurna Base Camp trek. I’ve often heard the cliché that unplanned trips are the best but in this instance it was 100% true. Annapurna has been the allure of mountaineers and hikers for decades. This 8091-meter high mountain, one of only 14 on Earth, is one of the most beautiful massifs in the Himalayas.
The journey with the team began in Kathmandu, where at the time most of us questioned why would we spend our vacation in one of the poorest and least developed countries in the world. But all it took was a short flight to Pokhara, and our first real look at the incredible peaks above, to put all our questions to rest. Pokhara, by its name, means a city of lakes and ponds… and indeed it was!On the very first day of the trek we were introduced to “Dalbat”, a strange local dish that quickly became a staple in our daily mountain diet. We also had our first ice-cold showers. With time we started to discover the exquisite nature of Nepal and soon came face to face with fishtail mountain also known as Macchhapuchre. As one of the last places on Earth where human beings have never set foot, it is a sacred peak in the Hindu religion associated with the god Shiva. Indeed as we approached it’s foothill it felt like the weather was made to challenge us at the will of the gods and we got our first real taste of Himalayan weather, testing both our persons and our waterproof equipment!
Along the way, we made the acquaintance of many a donkey, and even monkeys. With every step we took, not only did we face the inherent difficulties of the mountain trail but also had to strategize our movements to avoid stepping in the abundance of donkey crap that can sometimes feel like the only indicator that we’re indeed on the right trail. There were also incredibly rewarding moments, one of which was the incredible rainbow that formed on one of the afternoons.
The “strangers” I had met on the LHO team just days earlier quickly started to become family. We started to share almost everything from peanut butter to shampoo and toilet paper. We even started to identify each other by farts and snores, something only people who’ve ever been on a trip like this can ever really relate to!
As the days progressed and we made our way through the jungle, our eyes were witnesses to scenes and experiences that I don’t think any of us will ever forget.
“We had only known each other for a very short time but by the second day on the mountain, we had become family.”
Whenever things felt difficult or tiresome we could always rely on a familiar voice that kept repeating, “keep a steady pace”. It was indeed Rami, the team leader, whose refrain still haunts me in my sleep!
As we went higher and higher, the weather started to get cold and altitude started to take a toll on us. I still remember going to bed at 8p.m. – Something I hadn’t done in ages. We had an early start on basecamp day; waking up at 3 AM to a literal sky full of stars. Even though temperatures were way below freezing point, nobody cared. We were so busy wishing upon shooting stars that we became numb. Nostalgia kicked in, remembering the awe and wonder we once felt as children looking up to the cosmos…
At altitudes above 4,000 meters, I was shocked to meet a 77 years old Englishman. He had been trekking there for a week. Actually, it was his second time in the last twenty years that he was going for Annapurna! He was a live example that age is just a number, determination is what really counts and the mountain attracts the most incredible characters.
Finally, after 5 days of trekking through mountains, rivers and forests, climbing thousands of stairs and hearing Rami’s now infamous “keep a steady pace” mantra for the hundredth time, we were there. We had to disconnect from the world to connect with our souls. Neither broadband nor a 4G could have provided that kind of a connection. Only when surrounded by 8000 meter peaks, we realized how tiny we and our problems are. I recall hearing some whining along the trek but in the end, upon seeing the peaks it was a trek worth every drop of sweat. After taking some photos to freeze the moment, it was time to bid our farewell to the peaks.
On our way back down, we passed by Jhinu, the natural hot spring that flows just besides the freezing glacial waters in the middle of a valley and surrounded by sky high mountains. We were speechless and couldn’t resist a celebratory dip with the whole team! We stayed for more than two hours admiring God’s marvelous creations. We even met other people from all walks of life and every quarter of the globe who joined us for a game of Hot Spring Charades! I still remember LHOer Buffy acting out the Coyote Ugly bar dance scene in the springs. How can I forget?! It was EPIC. It was definitely one of the highlights of the trip etched into our memories forever. It’s amazing how we, people from different sects, religions and backgrounds met, mingled and lived together in complete harmony for ten days.
In the end, we won’t remember the time we spent working in the office but we will surely remember those 8000 meter peaks and all the laughs we had along the way. Thank God we experienced that mountain! And always keep in mind that Life Happens Outdoors!